Ullswater
In a moment of madness (another one!) I signed up to a guided walk of 20 miles around the Ullswater Way. Ever since hearing of this long distance trail I had a desire to do it. It would be fairly low level but would still have the picturesque views of the Lake District. And as it would only take a day or weekend, logistically it would be easier than a week-long trek. And physically too! When I heard of it last year, I sent away for a booklet which only whet my appetite further. And when I came across a company offering guided walks, I thought 'why not?'
I did some training before the big 20-mile day. This included walks up Ingleborough, a 12-mile Forest of Bowland ramble through muddy fields, shorter walks, fitness step videos and a clubbercise class.
Not enough really.
I didn't sleep well the night before. I would have to get up at 5am to be there for 7.45am and I was anxious about sleeping in. My Plan B was to go for a solitary walk if I missed the group.
Pooley Bridge was well signposted and surprisingly easy to get to. A small crowd had gathered outside the Crown Inn. With their rucksacks and waterproofs they looked like hikers and when one turned to me and asked if I was walking with them I knew this was the right place. A registration was held and a short pep talk by the walk leader who told us that naturally we would fall into four groups with four leaders. We would have a couple of stops along the way and Glenridding would be an opportunity to go back on the ferry if we were unable to carry on.
I was happy to hear there was an escape route if needed.
(The walk itself has four sections, outlined in The Ullswater Way - The Official Guide. This first stage is a seven-mile, three hour walk from Pooley Bridge to Aira Force, offering a 'gently rising opening, with a magnificent mountain prospect').
On the Ullswater Way
And we then set off. Out of Pooley Bridge, over the stainless steel road bridge over the River Eamont into Dunmallard Hill woods and then into fields - boggy fields - going uphill. Even if I could see Ullswater down below, this was not joyful. This brought back memories of my last trek through the Forest of Bowland, trudging through squelchy mud - but at least I now had waterproof trousers and thank goodness I opted for waterproof shoes as well!
Luckily this part didn't last too long and we ended up on a path leading past a Georgian mansion called Waterfoot House. I was happy to have a firm path underneath my feet.
I felt strangely competitive as I aimed to be anywhere but at the back. And it was around here that we were, indeed, naturally separated into four groups. The first two must have been speedy hikers as we quickly lost sight of them. The last wasn't too far behind us and seemed to consist of happy and giggling young ladies. As a fellow group rambler put it to me, our group 'seemed to be mostly middle aged women. Not slow and not fast'. Although by the end I was certainly on the slow side!
We walked along a hill ridge overlooking the beautiful Ullswater. There were undulations but nothing too strenuous although I wasn't keen on the rocky surface. Still, it wasn't squelchy mud so mustn't grumble. A fellow rambler in her 30s or 40s told me she had come with her friend who had helpfully stepped in as her other pal had let her down. She had stayed with her near Lancaster overnight. The other participants were a gathering of eight women from Chorley who were staying in Pooley Bridge for their friend's birthday and were looking forward to a glass (or two) or wine afterwards.
Aira Force waterfall
Our first stop was at Aira Force, a beautiful waterfall. We took photos which was followed by a 15-minute toilet and cafe stop. Buying a tea and flapjack. I drank tea with the others before all too soon we were called back to action.
(The second stage is a short 'lakeside ramble through ancient woodland', a mere 2.8 miles from Aira Force to Glenridding. According to my book, this tends to take one and a half hours. There is an Aira Force Jetty here).
Our leader informed us that we were a third of the way in. I was thinking it would be a quarter so I was delighted to hear this. A third already (this would be 7 miles) and I didn't even feel tired. Our guide reiterted what we were told in Pooley Bridge. Namely that our next stop would be our final chance to leave the walk and get the ferry back to the starting point.
On this March day that we were walking the Ullswater Way, there were daffodils everywhere. It was the same back in 1802 when Dorothy and William Wordsworth saw the sunny yellow flowers on the lake shore near Glencoyne Bay. William later wrote the famous words: "I saw a crowd/A host of golden daffodils/Beside the lake, beneath the trees".
Following our stop at the National Trust cafe, we went past Glencoyne Park and through the car park to a lakeside path.
Another three miles, this time along the shore of the lake, and we were in the little village of Glenridding. You wouldn't think it now, but this popular spot for tourists was once a mining village and it had the largest lead mine in the Lake District.
We would have a 20-minute lunch stop there before continuing the next 10 miles. This was the half-way point and I felt okay, another 10 miles, of course, bring it on!
I sat next to Catherine and Jane at a picnic bench. As we ate our sandwiches, Catherine pondered whether to buy gloves from the convenience store/hiking shop.
I was tempted by the foldable hiking poles. I had left mine in the car by accident and it looked as if nearly every walker had a stick with them. Why do I always forget something that could be very helpful every time I embark on a long walk?
(The third stage is a 6.5 mile walk through undulating track and rough woodland trail. From Glenridding to Howtown, it takes about three hours).
Ullswater
My last chance to leave the walk came and went and we followed our leader across the road to the next section of the walk. He told us that we were now the final walkers as the 'slow group' had a shorter break and were now in front. Some of my group were affronted! Some of the women in my group started walking even faster as if they wanted to catch them up. My weary legs wanted to shout "It's not a race!"
Ullswater
This competitive spirit paid off though as we encountered them later on. They didn't mind being last ones again although I noticed a man from their group had joined ours. Perhaps they were too slow for him? Or maybe he wanted to get home at a decent time for his evening meal?
Our final stop was at a quiet spot at Howtown overlooking the shore of the lake, an idyllic setting. There I drank some water and rested my exhausted limbs. Our guide pointed to where we would be going - up there.
"Up?"
One hiker bravely asked the question we were all thinking: "How far do we still have to go?"
"At the pace we're going" (does he mean we're walking slowly?) "five miles" (that's not too bad) "so about two hours". (What??!!)
(Where we rested was a place called Howtown and this is the start of the fourth and last section. According to my guidebook, the route from Howtown to Pooley Bridge takes two to three hours. It's either lakeside walking on the lower path, taking four miles or five miles along an airy terrace on the upper path - which is the route we took).
It was indeed two hours. It does actually say in my guidebook that the five mile route does take at least two hours. I was increasingly lagging behind, wishing I was with the 'slow guys'. But there was no sign of any of the others. What time did the 'fast ramblers' finish? Where was the 'slow group'? What time will we get back?
The upper path eventually took us back to Pooley Bridge about 5.45pm. I enjoyed the walk, the spectacular lake scenery was breathtaking, and it's a great feeling to realise that you've achieved what you set out to do.
Ullswater
However, I feel that there was so much I didn't see that I would have done if this was a weekend two-parter rather than a one-day challenge.
During the last stretch, there was a stone circle. It was a place of religious ceremony dating from the Neolithic period and linked Castlerigg stone circle, Long Meg and two trading routes. The way I was feeling at this point I may not have cared very much! But it would have been good to have known regardless and I only realised this curious landmark because of my guidebook.
The organised challenge company we were with were very good in getting us from A to B smoothly, and enabled us to walk at our own pace. The only quibble I would have is that it would have been nice to have had brief mentions of sights of interest pointed out while on our adventure. But otherwise a tough workout for the legs helped by sublime scenery. Next time I might take in the Ullswater Way on a more leisurely two-day hike though!
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