We cross the Bosphorus Strait via a steamer ferry that has been running nonstop for decades, so we can wander through my old neighborhood. Europe to Asia. Two continents split a city that knows more splits than I can count. On the hill above, the newest and biggest mosque is rivaled in height by the neighboring TV/Radio tower, the perfect symbol of Türkiye's two competing religions. It's her Centennial and I've been watching her duality unfold for more than a quarter century.
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