A Spring Risotto

Travel Gourmet

May 20

I've written about a spring risotto before - Risotto Primavera - but that was nine years ago and frankly, it's such a gorgeous risotto it deserves a little more attention and this one is more simple (though I have to confess I've made it like this before on the blog, but again nine years ago). It began with the asparagus. I just can't resist buying it while it's in its short season - from 23 April, known here in UK as St George's Day, and 21 June, the summer solstice. I like the idea that this gorgeous and rather special vegetable's season nestles between two significant dates.

The bunches propped up in a display in my local Whole Foods are impossible to ignore as I enter grocery section in the basement. I've bought some to make a simple asparagus risotto; roasted some (a brilliant way to cook it) to serve with salmon. The spring risotto always makes me think of Venice and eating it at Locanda Cipriani when I interviewed its owner, Bonifacio Brass, in 2015. Well, I may be in Twickenham today but the sun is shining, the sky clear blue and it's a glorious spring day. It couldn't be a better time to revisit this lovely risotto.

I used fresh asparagus but frozen peas and broad beans. You can of course use fresh of both and if you can get some young fresh broad beans, that would be lovely, and you could skip peeling the tough skins off (see below).

A Spring Risotto - Serves two

250g bunch of asparagus (the thick variety; not thin)
80g frozen peas
100g frozen broad beans
2 shallots or 1 medium onion
about 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
240g risotto rice
a good glug of white wine or dry white vermouth (about 100ml)
500ml light chicken or vegetable stock (or miso soup - see below)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
a knob of butter
Parmesan to serve

I weighed out and assembled the ingredients. It's a good idea to get everything ready before you start cooking. I didn't have any chicken stock - I often have some in my freezer - so I used a pack of instant organic miso soup instead, a light variety with edamame beans. I've mentioned using these soups before as I've never been a fan of stock cubes but I often drink these soups at lunchtime, made in a mug, and used as an alternative to stock, they give a lovely umami flavour to the dish. I used just one pack and made up 500ml of liquid.

To prepare the asparagus: hold each spear and bend near the bottom until it breaks. The bottom part is the woody part, which I throw away. You could, of course, use it too, chopped up, but I recommend thinly peeling the outside skin off first. Take the remaining spears and finely chop off the bottom part to leave just the tender tops of the spears whole. Keep the chopped pieces.

Bring the broad beans (you can cook from frozen) to the boil in some salted water. Simmer for two minutes then drain, put back in the pan and run cold water over them. Drain again. Then you need to take off the tough outside peel. It's a bit of a faff, I know, but I really think essential or your risotto will not be nice to eat. The skin comes off easily, either by just squeezing the bottom or making a small cut with knife or your nail and squeezing the bean out. They'll be bright green and taste as delicious as they look!

You don't need to cook the peas; they can go straight into the risotto as you cook it.

Now finely chop your shallot or onion. I use shallots a lot. Partly because living alone, I'm often cooking for just myself and a shallot is more convenient but actually even when cooking for two (my son was joining me for supper) or more, I still prefer the mild, sweet flavour of the shallots in some dishes. Put the shallot in a large frying pan with the olive oil. (I use extra virgin olive oil for pretty much everything after learning a lot about storage and that you can cook with it at an olive oil workshop years ago with an olive oil expert - click here.) Gently cook the shallot for a couple of minutes until it starts to soften but not colour. Now turn the heat up a bit to medium and add in the chopped ends of the asparagus. Stir well and cook for a couple of minutes to let the asparagus pieces soften a little.

Now tip in the risotto rice into the pan. It's essential to use proper risotto rice (carnaroli or arborio) so you get the nice creamy effect typical of a good risotto. Stir the rice round well so all the grains are coated in the oil. Now tip in the wine or vermouth. I had some white wine left over from the day before but don't use old wine, days old, or your food will be ruined as it will taste like vinegar.

Stir well and when the wine or vermouth is pretty much absorbed, start adding the stock slowly. The trick to a good risotto is adding the liquid gradually, stirring frequently. Once the stock is almost used up and absorbed but just a little left, check the rice for doneness. It should be almost al dente - a slight bite - but need just a fraction more time. Lay the asparagus tips on top and put a lid on briefly - a couple of minutes - so the asparagus almost steams and the rest of the liquid is absorbed. When it's done - check with the tip of a sharp knife; it should be soft but be cooked through - add the prepared broad beans and peas and stir thoroughly to mix. Cook for just another minute or so for the vegetables to warm through.

Add the knob of butter and a good grating of Parmesan. Mix in and beat a little - this is the mantecato stage that gives the risotto its creaminess.

Now your risotto is ready! Spoon into serving dishes - low bowls are best. Grate over a little more Parmesan and drizzle over a little extra virgin olive oil

It was gorgeous. So fresh tasting, my son said. Adding the vegetables near the end allows their individual flavours to shine through. This really is a brilliant spring dish celebrating that glorious asparagus in a wonderful way.