Do you want to up your game when appliquéing whether it is raw or turned edge? The Janome Appliqué Foot (AP) is the perfect little accessory for this technique. It's an optional specialty presser foot available for 5mm, 7mm and 9mm machines. Contact your Janome Canada dealer for details.
The Janome Applique Foot (AP) is shorter than most snap on presser feet so it's easier maneuvering around curves and corners when sewing applique pieces. Made of clear plastic for easier viewing as you sew, it is flat under the needle hole for optimum thread tension but is open wide behind the needle to let the thread and fabric pass through. I use it for all appliqués from the blanket stitch to the satin stitch on my Janome MC9450 QCP.
Many Janome machines have a variety of applique stitches from which to choose, even the regular old zigzag stitch. To install the foot there is a small extra clip at the back which first must be clicked into the foot holder before snapping the front part of the foot in place. This is the same set up as the Janome Button Sewing Foot (T).
To view more details on how to use the foot, check out the "A" episode of the Janome HQ Instagram Live series "A to Z with Janome HQ", which has also been uploaded to the Janome HQ You Tube channel.
There are many types of threads for appliqué, depending on the look you'd like to achieve. Sometimes the thread is a starring attraction, sometimes it's a supporting player in the background. I love all thread weights for various looks. Remember, the higher the weight number, the thinner the thread; the lower the number, the thicker the thread. So, when I want the stitches to disappear and look like hand work on a turned edge appliqué, I use an 80wt or 100wt thread, which is quite fine. The stitch I use for this is called the Blind Hem stitch with a short length and short width. It takes a few straight stitches then a zigzag stitch which bites into the fabric. On most machines, you can further adjust the stitch length and width as you'd like. I suggest you test these stitches out first on scraps before starting your good project.
For other appliqués which are raw edge of some kind, there are so many decorative and appliqué stitches from which to choose. I have used so many decorative stitches as a way of appliquéing the shapes together. You can often find most of these stitches in the Appliqué mode as part of Sewing Applications of your machine or in Decorative stitches. Even if your machine doesn't have dedicated "applique" stitches, use your imagination and experiment with "decorative" and "utility" stitches. I always test the stitch first and mark the stitch length and width that suits best.
Working with various thread weights like a heavier 30wt or 12wt requires a bigger needle. I have found that the topstitching needles SZ14 work best for more applique. Janome Red Tip SZ14 needles have sharp point and larger eye to use with thicker threads. You might even try a SZ16 Denim needle, depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread. Again, you want to test these first, especially if you find your thread is shredding with a smaller size needle.
With all these appliqués, I always use an 80wt thread in the bobbin. It is perfect to make sure the top thread is well hidden at the back with a perfect tension. To achieve this tension I switch out my regular "Red Dot" Bobbin Holder for the Janome High Tension/ "Yellow Dot" Bobbin Holder, which is typically used for embroidery.
The Janome High Tension (Yellow Dot) Embroidery Bobbin Holder is set at a tighter tension, 20grams, than the standard bobbin holder used for regular sewing, typically 10grams, and its perfect to use for these thick strong threads in the needle with a lightweight bobbin thread. This special bobbin holder creates easy-to-adjust thread tension when embroidering with non-Janome bobbin thread, and is an easy way to ensure the applique stitches get pulled to the backside of your project so the top looks, well, perfect!
Full Bloom pattern by Apple Hill Quilting & Designs
There are so many possibilities when appliquéing pieces to fabric. Try changing up the type of fabrics too; leather or vinyl can be fun and add texture to any bag you make!
Happy Appliquéing with the Janome Applique Foot (AP) and Janome High Tension Embroidery Bobbin Holder!
Monique
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