Topstitching and Edgestitching Techniques
By definition, the term topstitching has traditionally defined the line of stitching that attaches one element to another, such as a pocket to a shirt. However, most sewing enthusiasts more often default to width rather than construction when describing their right-side–of-the-project stitching, using topstitching when describing a stitch distance of more than ⅛" from the edge and edge-stitching for ⅛" or closer. The image above shows stitching close-ups of both types from the Multi Pocket Canvas Tote, a free project available now at S4H.
Topstitching can be done in a coordinating thread color for decoration or a matching thread color for stabilization. Edgestitching provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along an edge. It is usually done in thread to match the fabric – but that's not a hard-and-fast rule. Whether for embellishment or assembly, stitching that is visible from the right side is an important detail and its precision can make or break the final outcome of your project.
Needles and Thread
There's no hard and fast rule regarding the needle or thread you must use for topstitching and edgestitching. It depends more on the results you want.
There are specific topstitching needles, which have a larger eye and so can better accommodate the heavier thread sometimes chosen when you want your topstitching or edgestitching to really stand out. But in general, it's better to select the needle best suited to your fabric.
Below are two spools of an ivory thread. On the right is an all-purpose thread, on the left is a heavy thread. Want your topstitching or edgestitching to stand out as an embellishment accent? Use a heavy thread in a contrasting color. Prefer your topstitching to simply be a construction detail that provides stability and a neat finish? Chose an all-purpose thread in a color to blend with your fabric.
Stitch Type and Length
In addition to the thread you choose, the final look of your topstitching or edgestitching will depend on the stitch your select. We almost always recommend lengthening your stitch (3mm or greater is a standard rule of thumb). It's a cleaner look because the longer stitches are less likely to sink into the fabric.
In the photo below it's easy to see the difference in style between the top and bottom samples. The top sample shows a 2.2mm stitch and a 3mm stitch in all-purpose thread. The bottom sample shows a 2.2mm stitch and a 3mm stitch in a 12wt heavy thread.
Depending on your machine, there may be other stitches from which to choose for topstitching. Many Janome machines have a Triple Stitch, which gives an especially "beefy" result, especially with a heavy thread. The sample below shows the Triple Stitch done with a 4mm stitch length in a 12wt thread. Look for this stitch in the Utility category.
A twin needle can give you double emphasis with two perfectly spaced lines of stitching. The sample below shows 4mm double needle stitching in a 3mm stitch length with all-purpose thread.
Because topstitching and edgestitching are meant to be visible from the right side of the project, you can use a wide variety of thread colors in order to blend in or stand out as a decorative element. Decorative stitches are a lovely choice for a unique embellished finish. The image below is another double needle example, this time with two different colors of thread and a decorative stitch rather than a straight stitch.
Some Janome machines also include a "hand-stitch", "Sashiko style" or "Sculpture" stitch that is lovely along a finished edge. Check the Quilting section of your decorative stitches selection for this option.
Why are my stitches sometimes not perfectly straight?
Stitch formation can be affected by different types of fabric, especially coarse weaves. Topstitching and edgestitching seams want to follow the weave of your fabric. This means if you have a fabric with a particularly coarse weave, such as a canvas or linen, the stitches may appear to jog ever so slightly from dead-center alignment. This isn't the fault of your machine or even your skill; it's just a function of stitching on certain kinds of fabric. When your seam is complete, you can use your fingernail or the sharp, flat side of a pair of tweezers to gently push individual stitches back into line. This is definitely a picky piece of advice, but might stop you from thinking you're crazy when you can't get your stitches to cooperate and line up as straight and true as the repetitive marks of a drawn dashed line.
Our favorite Janome Presser Feet for Topstitching and Edgestitching
Our favorite, at the moment, is the Janome Edge Guide foot. We love its adjustability
Other favorites are listed below. This list is a combination of standard and specialty feet. Check your machine's manual and/or with your local Janome Canada Dealer to see what options may be available for your model.
Quarter Inch Seam Foot
Bi-Level Foot
Sliding Guide Foot
Clear View Quilting Foot and Guide Set
Overedge Foot
Blind Hem foot
Ditch Quilting Foot
Satin Stitch Foot (because it is clear with that great red arrow)
Starting and Stopping
The two best options to lock your topstitching or edgestitching at the beginning and end are an Auto Lock stitch or a hand-knot. Avoid backstitching to lock your seam as it can look too obvious and bulky.
If your machine has an Auto Lock feature, simply touch this button at the beginning and end of the seam to create a small, neat knot.
To hand knot, simply leave the thread tails long (about 3-4″ is a good length), and when the seam is complete, go back to both the starting and ending points to secure the tails. Use a needle to pull the top thread tail though to the back and tie the tails together in a double knot. Trim the tails close to the knot.
The samples below show you the end of a topstitching seam with Auto Lock (top) and hand-knot (bottom) from both the front and the back. The Auto Lock example shows the auto-cut function that trims the thread tails at the back. The hand-knot example shows the long thread tails prior to trimming.
If your thread breaks or you need to connect two lines of topstitching or edgestitching, you can use a lock stitch (machine or hand) to make a smooth connection. At the break or stopping point, use an Auto Lock stitch or pull the threads through to the back and knot. To start up again, drop your needle into the existing seam just one or two stitches from the end of the break. Auto Lock again or leave a long tail you can pull through to the back and knot. Continue stitching to the edge of the fabric, or if joining into another seam, stop as you started.
Although the Auto Lock is easier and faster, it does leave a bit of bulk because it's creating a knot. If you are working with a thread color that blends into your fabric, it should be fine. However, if you are working with a contrasting thread, we recommend taking the time to pull your thread tails to the back and hand knot. It will create the cleanest continuous line. The sample below shows an Auto Lock fix in the middle of a seam with a contrasting thread. It's pretty easy to spot the knot, so this is an instance where we would recommend hand-knotting.
We hope these techniques help you achieve tip top topstitching and enviable edge-stitching.
By: Liz Johnson, Senior Editor, Sew4Home – a Janome Exclusive Studio
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