It has been my fate to embark and disembark in many parts of the world at a large number of ports. I can truly say that at one and all rapacity and bullying are the dominant characteristics of a maritime population, no matter to what country, race, or creed they may happen to belong. Indeed, for cool and brazen extortion, I am not certain I would not back a British boratian in the Thames below London Bridge against any of his compeers in foreign ports. But the Bulgarians are exceptions to my experience of the 'long-shore fraternity.

They are moderate in their charges, and do not take advantage of a traveller being a stranger to make him pay more than they would ask of the natives. They do not shout and scream and fight, as the boatmen of Levantine ports are wont to do. They are slow but civil, and, in accordance with the customs of their country, they never ask for backscheesh. I have never, to my knowledge, been over-charged in Bulgaria by any cabdriver or boatman, and, be that, with a population so frugal as Bulgaria, begging is found to be an unprofitable trade. But, be the cause what it may, street begging, which is rife in Turkey and all over the Levant, is practically unknown in Bulgaria.

I was struck, too, by an incident of my passage to Bourgas, which could hardly have occurred elsewhere. The railroad comes down to the quays, or rather to the shore where the quays are to be erected, and the station is simply a large wooden shed open at both ends. I had some hours to wait before the train started by which I was to proceed to Jamboli ; and, on going to leave my luggage before visiting the town, I found that the booking offices were all closed, and that there was nobody to take charge of my trunks.

The whble floor of the shed was strewed over with piles of luggage belonging to passengers in the same plight as myself. There was nobody in charge of this luggage—none of the officials of the station were on duty at the time—but I was told by my guide that all I had to do was to have my portmanteau and bags and rugs put down in the first vacant spot I could find, and to leave them there till my return.

I demurred somewhat to this proposal, but I was assured that the things were as safe as if they were under lock and key; that luggage was always left in this way; that nothing was ever lost; and that if the natives, who would make much more outcry about losing half a franc than I should about losing a napoleon, were content to leave their own luggage unguarded and unprotected, I surely might do the same. I followed the advice, and had no reason to regret having done so.

Of the town of Bourgas itself there is little to be said that I have not said already of Rustschuk and of Varna. It has less of a distinctive character than either of the two above-named towns, though it has gone quite as fast ahead, if not faster. It possesses the same indications of progress that I have noticed elsewhere. New, broad, well-paved streets have been driven through the old city. There are fine public buildings and institutions. There are any number of handsome private dwelling-houses and all the ordinary signs of advancing civilization. The town is prettily situated, and may in time become a very popular and very prosperous seaport In the belief that such a contingency is certain to occur, the value of what the Yankees call "corner lots" in the town has increased very rapidly here of late, just as it has done at Varna.

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